Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently defined its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
